Sucking Head

Today we leave for Baton Rouge. The Annual Family Crawfish Boil draws folks from Atlanta, New York, Ypsilanti, Lafayette, Knoxville and even a European or two on occasion. The sultry brew of mud bug delight is never too spicey, never too scant. The greatest pleasure: to watch a bunch of native Louisianans snap, peel, bite their way to delight: efficiency, skill and a relaxed urgency unrivaled elsewhere.

These days, the crawfish you eat almost anywhere in the nation are usually from China or southeast Asia. However, we’ll be dining on locally grown product from the rice farms of Cajun country.